Jewellery Icons Reimagined for 2025

In fine jewellery, a signature motif can be worth more to a Maison than its weight in gold as it is these instantly recognisable forms that have come to define a brand’s legacy. Yet, as the boundaries between craftsmanship and wearability continue to evolve, these timeless icons are being reimagined to align with contemporary values of versatility and individuality of the wearer. The year 2025 signals a shift in this direction, as leading houses revisit their emblematic collections through both nostalgia and design refinement. Each reissue — be it through new materials, modular construction or adaptive form — reflects a brand’s commitment to preserving identity while embracing the future of how fine jewellery is worn and understood today.

Fred — Force 10 Rise

Launched almost six decades ago, FRED’s Force 10 line was born from founder Fred Samuel’s passion for sailing and has since become one of the Maison’s most recognisable signatures. Defined by the use of a braided cable and buckle, the collection quickly established itself as a symbol of strength and determination, bridging sport-inspired codes with fine jewellery craftsmanship. Over the years, it has been continually updated, but its identity has remained anchored in these nautical references.

For 2025, the house advances this narrative with Force 10 Rise, a reinterpretation that draws on the design vocabulary of one of its High Jewellery sets. While retaining the essential elements of the cable and buckle, the collection introduces a sharper graphic sensibility. The buckle now appears with pavé diamonds — further emphasised by a linear row of diamonds, creating a more defined contrast between the organic curves of the cable and the rectilinear geometry of the setting. Offered in pink or white gold, the pieces present a more structured and luminous expression of the Force 10 identity.

The update extends across new formats — including a band ring that amplifies the graphic codes on the finger, a necklace designed to be worn alone or layered in graduated gold tones and earrings in both hoop and half-moon forms. An ear cuff expands the collection’s modular potential, allowing for greater personalisation and mix-and-match styling. These additions shift the collection beyond its traditional bracelet format, aligning it with current preferences for versatility and stackable design. By evolving the Force 10 into Force 10 Rise, FRED demonstrates the endurance of how a long-established design can be carried forward to the present without losing elements of its heritage.

Boucheron — A. Quatre Classique Tube

Boucheron’s Quatre began in 2004 as a study in contrast. The four archival motifs — Grosgrain, Double Godron, Clou de Paris and a line of diamonds — were combined into a single band that distilled the Maison’s varied references to couture, architecture and Place Vendôme into a recognisable signature. The original ring is engineered as four independent bands, each assembled without solder by hand and that mechanical “click” at the end of the assembly remains a shorthand for the collection’s technical rigour. The Quatre Classique Tube is primarily launched as a fine jewellery collection, but within it there is a High Jewellery torque as the headline piece.

The 2025 Quatre Classique Tube is a deliberate reworking of that founding idea. Under Claire Choisne’s direction, the four historic patterns are now reinforced with a polished gold tube that runs around and through the motif. The tube alters the collection’s proportions and surface treatment, pushing Quatre from a band into an architectural silhouette. This makes the new pieces read as compact sculptures as the graphic purity of the smooth tube contrasts with the textured archival bands, making the motif more structural and more visible at a distance.

Technically, the update is both conservative and ambitious. The tube motif is realised across a range of formats — an angular bracelet with a concealed clasp, a two-finger ring conceived as two polished tubes that meet at the centre of the hand and flexible neck rings that are either solid and seamless or open and supple. Conceptually, Quatre Classique Tube keeps the collection’s archival language intact while translating those motifs into a more monolithic, architectural vocabulary that suits current preferences for wearable statement pieces and modular styling. The campaign — titled Into The Tube — frames the new work in the same architectural language and features Maison ambassadors including Alexa Chung, Han So-Hee, Xiao Zhan and Mila Al Zahrani.

Practical refinements underscore the collection’s modern intent. Ergonomic shaping prioritises comfort while preserving the strong graphic line. Clasps are hidden inside the central motif to present an uninterrupted tube around the wrist or throat. A bolo tie variant offers adjustable styling via a sliding tubular motif. Two sets of new earrings include a motif stud whose stem can be unscrewed and converted into a clip for attachment to clothing and a pared-back small hoop that rethinks the collection’s more recognisable hoop into a subtler form. The range is offered in yellow gold, white gold and pink gold — with a brown PVD option that adds a contemporary tonal contrast.

Tiffany & Co. — Bird on a Rock by Tiffany

Jean Schlumberger’s Bird on a Rock — first created in 1965 — is among Tiffany & Co.’s most recognisable designs. It features a whimsical bird perched on a gemstone that became emblematic of the Maison’s imaginative spirit. In 2025, under the direction of chief artistic officer Nathalie Verdeille, the motif enters a new phase. The Bird on a Rock by Tiffany collection spans both High Jewellery and Fine Jewellery for the first time, extending an icon of post-war design into a language suited to contemporary taste.

The collection is unified by the wing motif. The Fine Jewellery line distils the bird into more abstract and versatile forms. Figurative designs retain the bird in platinum and 18k gold, perched on gemstones in miniature, while the “Wings” series renders plumage as sculptural, asymmetrical patterns. These scalloped and feather-shaped pieces interlock when stacked, their diamond pavé appearing to float thanks to hidden settings. Convertible earrings offer four wear options, underscoring the collection’s modular spirit. The result is jewellery that can be adapted to mood and occasion while carrying the maison’s craftsmanship signatures — intricate texturing, layered settings and precise articulation.

To launch the collection, Tiffany has unveiled a new campaign captured by Carlijn Jacobs and styled by Katie Burnett, starring actress Zhang Ziyi and model Abby Champion. Shot against a dreamlike sky of clouds, the imagery reinforces the collection’s central idea of soaring freedom and the optimism of love. Together, the High and Fine Jewellery designs position “Bird on a Rock by Tiffany” as a faithful homage to Schlumberger’s imagination, but reshaped for a new generation of collectors.

Dior — Rose des Vents 10th Anniversary Updates

Dior Rose des Vents celebrates a decade of cosmic inspiration with new jewels. An odyssey in miniature, the “Rose des Vents” line has guided Dior Joaillerie since 2015, when Victoire de Castellane first transformed the maison’s heritage into wearable constellations. Inspired by the compass rose in the gardens of Christian Dior’s childhood home, Villa Les Rhumbs in Granville, this maritime motif — an eight-pointed star and the couturier’s favourite number — became a symbol of guidance, luck and imagination. Over the years, it has evolved into a universe of playful, reversible pieces that invite personal expression.

For its 10th anniversary in 2025, the collection expands across all four stories. New ring designs and an exclusive hidden watch join the original “Rose des Vents” jewels, maintaining the playful duality of motif and gemstone sides. The “Rose Céleste” story — born in 2018 and inspired by Dior’s fascination with divination — introduces a reversible necklace and earrings that offer multiple wearing options. An adjustable hook on a standout necklace allows it to be worn as a belt or a long or short necklace, offering a versatile range of styling choices.

The “Charms” story — launched in 2022 — pays tribute to Dior’s “gris-gris”, concealing diamonds and stone motifs known only to the wearer, heightening the sense of secrecy and intimacy. Meanwhile, the “Étoile des Vents” — a 2024 innovation — reinterprets Dior’s lucky star at 30 Montaigne, now enriched with three new single earrings and a constellation necklace in gold and diamonds, reinforcing the collection’s celestial narrative. Together, the 2025 additions bring a renewed luminosity to “Rose des Vents”, inviting collectors to hold Dior’s talismans close, to play, to layer and to style their own personal compass.

Qeelin — Wulu Collection

Since its founding in 2004, Qeelin has built its identity around reinterpreting traditional Chinese symbols through a contemporary design lens. Central to this vision is the Wulu collection — a motif deeply rooted in Eastern symbolism as a representation of prosperity and protection and is recognised for its distinctive gourd silhouette.

In 2025, Qeelin expands on this heritage with two new reinterpretations that extend the Wulu story into fresh creative territory. The first is an update to the Wulu Mini Solitaire line that sees the transformation of the original ring design into a series of everyday staples including necklaces, hoop earrings and a cord bracelet. Maintaining the signature double-diamond detail, these new expressions focus on versatility and wearability, allowing the Wulu motif to transition seamlessly from statement to staple while preserving its auspicious symbolism.

The second introduction — the Wulu Eternity Bangle — elevates the Maison’s craftsmanship through a study of texture and light. Set in 18K white or rose gold, eight diamond Wulu motifs appear to float within a finely grooved band. The interplay of sandblasted and polished surfaces creates a dynamic contrast that captures movement and depth, while its minimalist form invites stacking and layering.

Together, these new designs reframe the familiar Wulu language for modern collectors, translating a centuries-old symbol into contemporary jewellery that merges cultural resonance with global sophistication. Qeelin’s 2025 novelties reaffirm its ability to balance tradition and modernity, giving classic designs a wearable presence.

Chaumet — Bee de Chaumet 2025 Reimagining

Chaumet’s Bee de Chaumet continues its evolution as a renowned emblem of the Maison’s heritage. Originally inspired by the bee as a motif of power and vitality, the collection has been reinterpreted for 2025 with new forms that enhance wearability while preserving its graphic identity. The latest designs introduce a fluid, second-skin construction in mirror-polished white gold and diamonds, expanding the collection’s visual language through supple parures and articulated silhouettes. These additions offer a more substantial alternative to the original creations, merging technical precision with comfort to achieve a seamless, luminous finish.

Signature elements such as the honeycomb motif are reworked into openwork pendants, bangles and rings that invite layering across yellow, white and rose gold. Pavé and mirror-polished surfaces alternate to create subtle contrasts, while new rose gold hoop earrings add a modern, luminous touch to the line. High jewellery interpretations showcase Chaumet’s craftsmanship through standout pieces, including brooches set with vivid gemstones such as an 11.07-carat sapphire and a 19.05-carat aquamarine. Each design reflects the maison’s commitment to translating natural motifs into architectural compositions, rooted in precision and proportion.

With this renewal of Bee de Chaumet, the house reinforces its signature by revisiting a historic symbol with clean geometry, adaptability and light-infused detail that resonates with today’s collectors.

Cartier — LOVE Unlimited

Few designs in modern jewellery history have achieved the cultural permanence of Cartier’s LOVE bracelet. Conceived in 1969 by Aldo Cipullo in New York, its distinctive oval shape of visible screws and lockable mechanism has transformed the idea of jewellery for couples into a modern emblem of commitment. For 2025, Cartier revisits this legacy with the launch of the flexible LOVE bracelet — a technical and aesthetic evolution that preserves the symbolism of the original while adapting it to contemporary lifestyles.

The new design replaces the “rigid” bangle with a fully articulated structure composed of miniaturised gadrooned links punctuated by polished screw motifs, maintaining the visual rhythm of the classic piece. Developed through more than a hundred design trials, the bracelet’s innovation lies in its flexibility that utilises a second-skin construction of 200 components connected by an invisible, patent-pending clasp mechanism that enhances ease of wear without compromising the integrity of the design.

This updated version allows wearers to connect one bracelet to another through its clasp system, transforming a single piece into a continuous chain — a symbolic gesture that expands on the original concept of shared love. Available in yellow, rose and white gold, it also comes in a complementary ring form that mirrors the same proportions and detailing on a smaller scale.

By introducing movement and modularity to one of its most recognisable designs, Cartier reinforces the enduring relevance of the LOVE collection. The flexible version reflects the Maison’s ability to reinterpret heritage through technical prowess, ensuring that what began as a countercultural statement in the 1960s remains a highly sought-after emblem of modern intimacy that consumers have come to know today.

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