Benoit de Clerck on Zenith at 160 and the G.F.J. Reveal

Zenith has the blues, but not the Blues. A year of chaos, though it might be, the Swiss watch brand celebrates its 160th anniversary with a series of distinctive blue watches, including a big surprise that we have had to sit on since February. But more on that later because it requires some mise-en-scene, as they say in filmmaking. CEO Benoit de Clerck tells us excitedly about the firm’s deep roots in Le Locle, having had its headquarters and manufacture there since 1865. As he says, this is an unusual matter in watchmaking, with no firm today still occupying its original site and using it for the same functions. A true wonder, this manufacture is as impressive to de Clerck as it was when he described its virtues to us last year, at Watches and Wonders Geneva.

Our meeting this year is not at the fair, for this story, but in Singapore just after the LVMH Watch Week, with both de Clerck and Product Development Director Romain Marietta visiting. This is the reason we do not get into the anniversary watches, with one exception. Chronologically, this is the first interview we did for this issue, which winds its way to you only now because this is our first print issue after Spring, although Vision is hardly a regular issue. Zenith, for its part, is a mainstay of our coverage, as its status as a maker of very highly regarded movements befits. The manufacture’s remarkable story – and survival – also earns it a place in the pages of any watch specialty title. It is no understatement to say that the history of Zenith marks well the overall history of Swiss watchmaking.

As Zenith celebrates its momentous birthday, there is another way in which it is different to its peers, which de Clerck correctly points out is related to the manufacture itself. Because there are hardly any watch firms that have remained in the same place since their foundations, most have lost all manner of untold treasures over many generations. These include everything from archive records to equipment, most of which Zenith has managed to preserve simply by virtue of never having had to move. Of course, de Clerck does not need to mention that even Zenith would have lost its very heart if watchmaker Charles Vermot had not indulged in a bit of heroic insubordination.

It is this heart — the passion for mechanical watchmaking, not necessarily just the know-how behind the El Primero — that consumes de Clerck and indeed many of his famous predecessors at Zenith. He would only hint at what was coming when he met us, at one point even giving us the old ‘wink, wink,’ literally, and that is all we will say about it. But of course, everything is fit to print now, with WWG 2025 firmly in the rear-view mirror. In many ways, we flatter ourselves to think that watch brands pay attention to what we write, but with the G.F.J watch, we are finally seeing different sides to Zenith being brought into the 21st century. This is the watch de Clerck was so confident would appeal to you, dear readers, and to us as well. It comes from the archives, but not directlybecause you will surely realise that Zenith had never had a watch in the collection named after the brand’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot.

Chiming in here was Product Development Director Romain Marietta, who explained that history and legacy supplied excellent raw materials for the brand. “The key is selecting the right watches that can be successful now,” said Marietta. “I hope the new watch will speak to the audience (of collectors and connoisseurs).” Powered by the legendary calibre 135, the watch might already be famous amongst the very group Marietta and de Clerck referenced, thanks to a special series sold by Phillips in association with Bacs and Russo in 2022.

We get into this calibre and the new G.F.J watch in our brief chat with de Clerck and Marietta, with more-than-usual editorial intrusions. All answers below are from de Clerck, except where noted, for reasons of clarity.

You talked a lot about your first 100 days as CEO, including with us. Give us an update on how things are going?

It’s been a very interesting year, with a lot of discoveries (for me)…a lot of good and enriching things (and experiences) for me (personally and professionally). Overall, it was a good year (for Zenith), although certainly not a walk in the park. We talked before about the first 100 days when I took over as CEO, and – I repeat – how very difficult it was for me, going through it without making any judgments, only listening. It was a very good lesson because it allows you to gain perspective (on how things are done); however, changes have had to happen and you know, things are always evolving, which is normal. It’s part of the job and part of the journey.

And amongst those changes, are there any highlights?

On the product side, we have adjusted and recalibrated; there are no major changes. It has not been a 90° turn or a 180. Again, I’m not here to change and drop the ball (by making changes for the sake of making changes). I won’t change everything that has been done (by my predecessors) because what has been done has been done properly, so that’s very important. Can we improve it? Yes, of course. Can we do things better? Yes, of course. There’s always room to improve and this is the challenge, you know, and this is part of my job and the job of my team.

We discussed the potential of the brand outside the core chronograph area previously, while talking about the 160th anniversary this year. Tell us what we can expect.

The beauty of Zenith is that the brand is very rich in history; there’s a big archive. This heritage is a very strong pillar for Zenith; for us, it’s just a matter of getting into the archives, digging into the heritage and (in some cases) talking to people who were working at the manufacture (in the past). There is always a story to discover. Don’t forget we’re celebrating 160 years of being in the same building so that’s very important.

You know, for example, you have moved few times in your life; you load up the mover’s truck and then you have two or three boxes left that won’t fit because the truck is full. So, now you know what to donate to the Salvation Army! The beauty of Zenith is that we have always been in Le Locle; we have never moved. So, we kept all the archives and therefore we have a plethora of options, of designs. Digging into this is part of the fun that we have with the product team <here indicating to Marieta – Ed>. I can tell you that it is difficult to choose because everything is there (in the history of the brand); it’s just a matter of improving (and updating).

You also asked about the anniversary… you will be flabbergasted by the celebration! Because what we have decided —it’s good news—is not to go into fireworks. We have decided to cement and speak about what our brand values are and what we’re all about. We are definitely not about fireworks! Fireworks last half an hour and then you have a nice finale for five minutes and the next day you wake up and you forget it. We are about authenticity; we are about heritage; and we are about things that are real. This is very important, and that’s why for the celebration of 160 years, we are expressing the brand in a different angle.

And that of course brings us to the G.F.J, which is not a supercomplication, which is as close to fireworks in fine watchmaking, as some would have expected…

We have a talking piece that relates to what we are…what we are renowned for; notorious for, even, but in a good way. It is all about chronometry of course (and the many chronometry prizes earned by Zenith back in the day). The short of it is that we want it (the watch) to remain something that will have a unique message for watch collectors, and for those who know about the brand and for the people who don’t too!

(For those who do not know, the limited edition G.F.J watch is a time-only piece powered by the latest version of Zenith’s calibre 135, which the manufacture is not distinguishing from the 1948 original with a new designation. Back in the post-WWII era, Zenith won a record 235 observatory chronometry prizes with a version of the original calibre 135. As de Clerck and Marietta note, this movement encapsulates all the things enthusiasts know about Zenith — basically, everyone who got excited by the 2022 edition, but it has been updated with many improvements, including a longer power reserve and an incredible rate of +/-2 seconds per day. Note the lapis lazuli dial and mother-of-pearl small seconds subdial, and the in-house developed platinum case is worth a closer look at. We will be getting more in-depth on this piece in a subsequent issue – Ed).

If you see the guilloche decoration on the dial, on the hour-marker chapter ring, this is a reference to the design of the bricks at the manufacture. You will also see it on the movement plates and bridges (and the matching platinum bracelet, in the version so-equipped). This is a beautiful way to pay tribute to our brand; to pay tribute to our savoir-faire (past and present). The watch shows off what we are good at, which is craftsmanship. I would not call it low-key (in reference to my comments, which have been edited out – Ed) but much more authentic (going beyond what is normal for Swiss brands such as Zenith, at its level).

The G.F.J is a brand new watch that has never existed in this form, but we understand that you are in the process of reducing references. Please tell us more.

We are rationalizing the collection for sure; it’s an ongoing process. It’s not going to be done with a sledgehammer or (anything drastic like this); it’s going to be a calculated reduction because I like purity, first of all, and I like when things are simple. Today, I have to make things easier for my partners but also for all the people who buy Zenith watches. This reduction of references is a programme that we have initiated with Romain, and it will be an ongoing process. But we do have a finish line as well.

Would this rationalisation be related to making the brand more approachable or perhaps easier to understand? Especially for younger enthusiasts and collectors?

This is something that we take very seriously because, you know, the younger generation is the generation of tomorrow and the generation of today, actually. And we know for a fact that in our boutiques and our network (of partners), we are seeing a younger crowd. So, that means that today, people who are buying Zenith watches are getting younger, which is good news! This is a dream come true for most brands. It means we are getting more and more newcomers as well; I’m talking numbers here. I cannot share the numbers, but we know that we are getting a younger generation and a larger number of newcomers.

And this is coming naturally, and not only naturally but also organically, because the appeal of the brand is growing. Why? Because today, people, whether young or not, are looking for authenticity and we are very authentic. People are looking for something that really happened; they’re looking for credible history (rather than stories invented by brands). Everyone is welcome to visit the manufacture (which has expanded its public visit days from once a week to twice) and see what we are really about. We have 160 years of history in our buildings.

This story was first seen as part of WOW’s #78 Vision 2025 Issue

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