Autumn/Winter 2025 Menswear Second Look

Final Stroke

Jonathan Anderson’s career-making run at Loewe may have ended months ago, but we still have the opportunity to experience his creations one last time. Autumn/Winter 2025 marks his final output for Loewe and it’s every bit what you’d expect from the former creative director.

Each of the menswear looks from the collection is a constant tension between subtraction and abstraction; of simplicity versus the outré. Roomy tailored trousers are paired with a plaid mohair coat cut with exaggerated scarf-like sleeves meant to be tied or left hanging; an ovevrsized leather jacket layers over a knit top with a plunging keyhole neckline; and a trompe l’oeil hoodie that looks as though it’s layered under a cardigan, are just some of Anderson’s signature play.

As sort of a fitting goodbye, Anderson partnered up with the Josef & Anni Albers Foundation, checking off another creative dialogue with artists, a move that has been part of his legacy at Loewe. The colour-blocking from Josek Albers’ “Homage to the Square” series and Annie Albers’ abstract weavings, both serve as decorations as well as extensions of Loewe’s capabilities as a brand to explore fashion as an extension of art.

With this, another chapter—a long one at that—closes for Loewe. And a new one is set to begin; such is the business of fashion.

Read More: Autumn/Winter 2025 Menswear First Look

Just a Pop

For Autumn/Winter 2025, there isn’t a single dominant colour that’s prevalent throughout the different collections. Sure, shades of browns remained a mainstay for seasons now (a neutral that has found its way back into conversations ever since “quiet luxury” became a thing) but collectively, the season’s collections are a mix bag of colour stories.

Red seems to be a common thread but not in the way that one should go out and purchase a full monochromatic scarlet outfit. Red is used as an accent, a visual break from coloured monotony. Brunello Cucinelli’s Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear collection adopts it as a manifesto—it employs the colour as a departure from its staple use of an earthy palette.

A red turtleneck is a vibrant base for grey suiting, while a Canadian tuxedo-inspired look is freshened up with a utilitarian red gilet. At Giorgio Armani, luxurious red sheens are turned into shirts, whereas Versace’s Baroque prints include red accents that jump at you from afar.

There’s versatility in how one could include the colour without investing on a statement garment. Take notes from System where accessories such as a neck accessory or a bag—both in a stunning fire engine red—add punch to more neutral combinations.

Those SL Boots

They’ve been seen on red carpets worn by Pedro Pascal and Alexander Skarsgård months after debuting on the Saint Laurent Winter 2025 menswear runway. These Saint Laurent boots are anything but ordinary. At first glance, they look like any other thigh-high leather boot, although to be fair, you don’t see many of them in the menswear universe.

It’s in the way that they’re styled that’s grabbing attention. Creative director Anthony Vaccarello pairs them with the House’s brand of ’80s-style suiting, creating a juxtaposition between a traditional, business-appropriate outfit with somewhat kinky boots.

The Joe over-the-knee boots (as they’re officially called) will hardly be a Saint Laurent mainstay—at least the House’s Summer 2025 menswear show in June saw no repeat of the style—but it’s the men’s footwear of the moment. Wearing one like how it’s done in the show is the way to go because it’s already such a strong, collection-defining statement. Opt between suiting or wearing them over leather trousers, with the latter being a brilliant way to avoid a jarring appearance.

The Drama

We’re about to use the term “robe” quite loosely here. Basically, we’re regarding an outerwear with a belt or a waist fastener as one, with a proclivity for a roomy slouchiness, especially around the shoulders. The key thing to note is that they’re almost theatrical in execution this season.

The starting point of Autumn/Winter 2025’s dramatic robes is Kim Jones’ closing number for his final Dior Men collection. Inspired by Christian Dior’s Pondicherry embroidery, Jones’ rendition is a cropped robe decorated with said embroidery and cut with oversized proportions for maximum opulence. Valentino’s is crafted in silk with floral embroidery and resembles more of a nightgown with red satin trims, while Tom Ford adopts a similar look sans the decorative elements.

With anything this dramatic, the key to pulling it off is to keep everything else simple. Play with a muted, monochromatic base for a foolproof delivery. Or keep the robe closed and belted to cover up inner layers, leaving a peek of coloured trousers for a more balanced take.

New Western

No, no one is asking you to dress up like a cowboy. But there has been a fascination with style codes of the Wild West for a while now. They’re more refined than ever for Autumn/Winter 2025 without the risk of anyone looking like a caricature.

Of course, it’s not a mere remix of a full cowboy look. Instead, brands are deconstructing the traditional cowboy aesthetic, interpreting its elements and contextualising them for the now. Western-inspired shirts like the ones by Acne Studios, Hermès, and Calvin Klein Collection riff on the original’s pointed collar, with the Acne Studios version keeping the distinctive design lines intact.

Jil Sander takes it up a notch by reimagining a Western shirt as a leather jacket. Embellished and embroidered details reminiscent of Western-style outerwear appear in Amiri, System, and Loro Piana, while Prada’s cowboy-esque boots are given an atypically un-masculine treatment with floral prints.

Quintessential to the style is denim, especially denim on denim. At Versace, denim is part of a broken three-piece suit consisting of an evening jacket worn over a collarless denim layer and embellished denim jeans. Studded belt, gloves and boots complete the look for a truly timeless Versace-fied update.

This article was first seen on ESQUIRE SG.

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