The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is a Masterclass in Refinement

With a storied history involving a space agency, space expeditions, moon landings, a beloved comic beagle and a collaborative spinoff, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is a timepiece that does not need further introduction. Across the rich annals of Omega’s archives, the iconic Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch has seen numerous variations and iterations released over the decades, some more desirable and sought after than others. With 2026 barely two weeks old, Omega has unveiled two new additions that are definite fan favourites.

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatches in question are rendered in the much-loved black dial with white chronograph subdials configuration, colloquially known as the reverse panda in informal watchmaking jargon. And yes, a panda dial is the inverse colour layout. Why is this significant for an Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, then? This duo, in stainless steel and Omega’s proprietary 18K Moonshine Gold (yellow gold alloy), marks the first general release with this dial configuration. The last reverse panda configuration released was the 2017 Fratello Speedy Tuesday edition. There are no other records since then, although there were for other Speedmasters.

While that is the big news filtering out from Biel/Bienne, Omega seized the opportunity to introduce a subtle switch-up for this pair of Speedmasters. Firstly, the dials are now lacquered. The step dial is assembled with a double plate; the main upper plate is polished before receiving a varnish and lacquer finish to achieve a glossy sheen. Its subdial frames are rhodium-plated for visual distinction. A similar process is then applied to the base layer; the main difference being its colour. In order to enhance the watch’s legibility, all other transferred elements, such as the minute track and chronograph numerals and tracks, are rendered in an inverted colourway. The other notable change is the material of the external tachymeter scale. Instead of the usual aluminium insert, these editions now feature a fade-resistant black ceramic insert with white enamel tachymeter elements. While some might gloss over this minute detail, Omega has included the lore-worthy “Dot over 90” and “Dot diagonal to 70” on the ceramic bezel.

Apart from these, much of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch blueprint remains untouched. The two new kids on the block feature the sapphire-sandwich (front and back) construction in a 42mm case with a polished-brushed bracelet. Omega’s manual winding Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 3861, based on the famed calibres 1861 and 861, is Master Chronometer certified and is magnetic resistant up to 15,000 gauss.

In what is already packaged as an all-conquering, modern-day Speedmaster Moonwatch, Omega’s subtle changes modernise and inadvertently refine the iconic watch further. In doing so, Omega has resisted the temptation to overcorrect. Instead of rewriting the Speedmaster Moonwatch’s story, this pair simply balances heritage cues with discreet material and finishing upgrades. For long-time enthusiasts, it is a familiar icon seen through a cleaner, more contemporary lens. For newer collectors, it is an unusually considered entry point into one of watchmaking’s most storied lineages.

This article was first seen on Men’s Folio SG

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