Blancpain Unveils the Fifty Fathoms in a Sleeker 38.2mm Case
With the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm, the brand has finally given us the more restrained dive watch the community has been hankering for since the model returned to the fold in 2003. Since that time, Blancpain has heard from us all that we wanted a more compact version of the Fifty Fathoms, one of two claimants to the title of “world’s first dive watch.” Sticking to its guns, Blancpain maintained that the Fifty Fathoms model was made for professionals in 1953 and thus could not be smaller than its 45mm size. Of course, that original model was 41mm so…
Barring some limited editions over the years, Blancpain has never given any indication that it would ever yield to persistent requests for a smaller diver. Even for women, who are an important part of the diving world. Well, we can all stop our bellyaching, as they say, because there are now a slew of Fifty Fathoms Automatique models to satisfy those consistent requests, and they are 38.2mm, to be precise. Now, we have to say that this was a bit of a wink-and-a-nod sort of drop from the brand, with the first two 38.2mm releases last week looking like standalone news. In fact, we wrote this entire story (for the most part) without knowing that more watches were on the way… One clue that more models were coming was that the Internet reacted slowly, uncharacteristically.
On those two ladies’ models last week, could either of these ostensibly made-for-her watches appeal to men? That is down to taste, of course, but – for the Singapore audience – we think one of these models would be perfect for SG60…
Anyway, if we are being honest, we think most professional commentators (ourselves included) never thought the day would come when there would be a Fifty Fathoms model smaller than 40mm…and the smallest watch in the range is actually 42mm, with anything smaller (hello Hodinkee!) being restricted to very special runs. Indeed, the existence of the Bathyscaphe line, which does offer more restrained proportions, seemed to render questions about smaller Fifty Fathoms options moot. Such suggestions seem downright churlish, it could be argued. After all, the Bathyscaphe is quite an excellent dive watch in its own right; however, it is not the Fifty Fathoms.
Fifty Fathoms Automatique Ref. 5007
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is a right proper icon and, if it is your flavour of dive watch, nothing can substitute it. This is what all dive watches descend from- it is an Ur form that precedes ISO standards. In many ways, the original Fifty Fathoms set the standard, or predicted them, if you prefer. This means that its form and character are sacrosanct, and yet… Blancpain itself has clearly altered the watch from the 1953 original. No one imagines that even the 2003 contemporary Fifty Fathoms was an exact replica, nor the 2007 version that heralded the return of the watch to the regular collection. Blancpain does not do replicas, and neither does any watchmaking brand that invests in its own identity.
Fifty Fathoms Automatique Ref. 5007
Before we go further, though, an actual introduction is called for, and we shall organise by order of release. What we have first, then, are the two ladies’ automatic 38.2mm dive watches, one in red gold and one in brushed grade 23 titanium – Ref. 5007 3644A and Ref. 5007 12B44R, respectively. Both are 12mm thick so nothing extraordinary there and are powered by the same automatic Calibre 1153, which boasts 100 hours of power reserve but are not chronometer certified. Water resistance is 300 metres and Blancpain has of course not shorted us on an exhibition caseback. The titanium model has a pink dégradé mother-of-pearl dial while the red gold watch sports a black dégradé mother-of-pearl dial. Blancpain calls these colours petal pink and smoky black. The titanium model in particular leans into pink very heavily, as you can see.
Joining these two early birds are three officially “genderless” models, all sharing the same size and the same Calibre 1153. These are Ref. 5007 1130 71S (polished steel with black dial and bezel); Ref. 5007 12B40 98S (satin brushed grade 23 titanium with blue dial and bezel); and Ref. 5007 36B40 O52B (red gold with blue dial and bezel, this one with sail cloth strap). Intriguingly, all 38.2mm models are sans date, which is a first for the Fifty Fathoms collection. While that move may be lauded by the most peevish of the date window debaters, the same may not hold true for the horn spacing for all 38.2mm models, which is 19mm. This is different to the 42mm models (21.5mm) and the 45mm models (23mm); this has implications for those who like to swap out straps frequently and should be noted.
Not having worn these watches in any form, prototypes or otherwise, it is difficult to assess them relative to anything else. It might be that the balance will be slightly off or just right but we will hazard a guess that the fit over a wetsuit might be less than optimal. It should be obvious from the look of the watches that these latest propositions are recreational tools, not professional ones. And that leaves us with the idea that this is meant to be a second watch, or the primary watch of a person who does not use it for diving. On that note, the logo engraved on the case flank remains in place in the 38.2mm model, and this too is a feature that is much discussed. It is probably good that the collection holds onto to more elements of its shared identity – it did not occur to us to even ask after the flank logo initially.
We close this first look (at pictures and specifications) with a message from Marc A. Hayek, President and CEO of Blancpain (which was included in the press information and is quite delicious. “The Fifty Fathoms is much more than a diver’s watch, it’s a symbol of exploration and innovation. With the addition of new models, we’re responding to a clear demand while reaffirming that this collection was always meant for all wrists. It’s a natural and important evolution for a watch born underwater, made to be worn anywhere.”
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